Yes! Polyaspartic can be used as a base coat, and typically is the more sought after job due to its durable properties, UV resistance, and quick application time. Most polyaspartic jobs can be completed within 1 days time.

Yes! Polyaspartic coatings inherit strong inter-coat adhesion and can be used both for a base coat layer, and topcoat layer either over polyaspartic, or epoxy beneath.

Polyaspartic coatings can be touched after a few hours and they will typically fully cure in about 24 hours.

Polyaspartic floor coating systems are only better for the topcoat application. It is only ever used as a basecoat if a quick-installation, or weather requirements are needed. Its UV-resistant behavior, quick application and set time, and durability, make it a sought after option for topcoat choices.

Polyaspartic odors will last anywhere from 12-24 hours while the floor is drying. This timeframe is dependent on if the room is warm or cool, as cooler temperatures result in a longer drying time.

Polyaspartic floor coatings range in layer thickness, anywhere from 2 mils to 18 mils thick. Dependent on the project spec, we typically stay in the 5-8 mil range per layer poured to ensure proper coverage of the floor and durability with the layer. Be cautioned on too thin of pours as it can results in your base coats being too thin, allowing for the substrate to be viewable, especially if using a clear coat.

Polyurethane is different than polyaspartic aliphatic polyurethane. Polyaspartic and poly urethane are both have a high impact and chemical resistance, however polyaspartic offer UV resistance, which prevents yellowing from UV light over time, resulting in poly being the winner the majority of the time when choosing between the two. Lastly, Polyurethane can take up to 48 hours to cure, while polyaspartic only takes a few hours before you can touch it.

Although polyaspartic can set within a few hours, it is recommended that you do not walk onto the surface until a 12+ hour window has passed. The surface should be tack free. It is also recommended that you wait a minimum of 24 hours before placing any medium-weight objects onto the polyaspartic floor.

Yes! Our polyaspartic brand sticks to concrete as a substrate, and have a higher strength and flexibility than epoxies, making it well worth the investment to choose a full-poly system.

Our process for applying polyaspartic flooring is dependant on the project needs and prepwork. Once the floor is cleaned of contaminants, cracks filled and the floor grinded, we will then apply 1 coat of polyaspartic, flakes if desired by the customer, and a final topcoat that will produce a clean and semi gloss finish dependent on the customer request.

Yes! There is a slight trade off between choosing polyaspartic or epoxy. Epoxy creates a mehcanical bond with the substrate which can be superior in basecoat application. However, Epoxy is also more prone to scratches over polyaspartic, resulting in more customers choosing polyaspartic for their top coats to prevent damage from both impact, weight, and UV.

Yes, polyaspartic floor applications will be more expensive due to it being a newer technology, UV resistant, and long-term durability.

Polyaspartic coatings have a 2900 psi tensile strength, and are 3-5 times harder than epoxy.

Polyaspartic generally will stick to any surface where a resinous concrete floor coating is called for. This can be both for commercial and residential applications.

Yes, polyaspartic flooring is chemical resistant, as well as UV resistant making it the winner for longevity in your flooring over epoxy and polyurethane topcoat.

With the brand of epoxy that we use, it has self-adhesion properties making it a great candidate for both primer and epoxy. With its self-leveling properties, epoxy is the easiest and lowest cost choice of flooring application to pick from. How thick can I pour epoxy on floor?
- 1 gallon at 5 mils thick will cover 320 sq. ft.
- 1 gallon at 10 mils thick will cover 160 sq. ft.

Majority of epoxy flooring jobs require more than one coat, Typically, 2-3 coats of epoxy are required, which must cure for 12-24 hours depending on the environment, depth of pour, etc. The issue with choosing only one coat, is the result of your substrate being able to come through as visible, as well as the durability of your epoxy floor. Depending on whether the job is commercial or residential, most typically a polyaspartic topcoat is used to improve coating longevity over epoxy.

Most projects required 2-3 coats of epoxy, depending on your use of the flooring, and if you choose to incorporate a flake system as well.

With our high-quality epoxy systems, we only need to sand during the 'prep' stage. Due to the epoxies self-leveling and high adhesion properties, each coat produces a level, and gloss finish that does not required sanding/buffing between coats. HOWEVER: proper prep work is the key to ensuring each coat of epoxy is a success.

Other brands of epoxy may require you to use a primer beforehand, however our epoxy products incorporate priming properties that allow the epoxy to have a full seal and adhesion to the substrate (most typically concrete) as long as the surface is properly prepared beforehand.

Yes! You can epoxy a painted concrete floor. Depending on the condition of the floor, we most likely will have to sand the floor as done with any other epoxy project, to ensure we maximize the surface area of your floor, and have a prepped surface ready to have epoxy poured onto.

Yes! We recommend to all clients to use between 2-3 coats of epoxy, depending on their needs with the floor, and if they choose a flake system or not.

Yes! When installing epoxy flooring, we never recommend doing a single coat of epoxy. All of our projects are done with 2-3 coats, ensuring complete coverage, durability, and longevity of your flooring.

- Economical flooring choice
- Resistant to damage
- Weather-withstanding
- Aesthetically pleasing
- Protects and decreases wear & tear
- Long life-time

- Strong application fumes
- Long curing time
- Can be slippery when wet
- Can scratch more easier over polyaspartic

Epoxy floors typically do not scratch easily, due to its hard resin coating. However, over time and wear it can produce scratches, unlike polyaspartic which is harder and typically more sought after for floors that have high activity and weight levels.

Epoxy floor peeling typically occurs when improper prep work has been done, resulting in bubbles, and poor adhesion. Also, if you do not have a properly poured and covered application, or extreme temperatures, you can also run into the issue with your floor peeling.

Epoxy floor longevity ultimately results in the use of the floor, and exposure to UV light. Most residential applications can be kept looking new for over 10 years, however poor maintenance, and heavy traffic/weight such as in industrial applications can cause quicker wear of the flooring, resulting in the need for maintenance or a new coat of epoxy. Any clients looking at longevity in their floors, we recommend using polyaspartic especially as a top coat, due to its UV resistance, durability, and longevity of it.

Yes! Before pouring and applying epoxy, the floor is first degreased, acid etched, and any concrete cracks or imperfections are filled and fixed. Once the prep-work is completed, a thoroughly sand and vacuum is completed to ensure the surface is at optimal adhesion levels to stick to the epoxy.

Warm water and a mop/deck-scrubbing brush will suffice in keeping your epoxy floor clean. Be wear of soap-based floor cleaners that can leave a hazy/cloud on your epoxy floor which can build up over time. In the case of more intense spills, seek for a 'soft-soap' cleaner in conjunction with your warm water mixed.

Yes! We suggest grinding to all of our customers to ensure the epoxy flooring is well adhesive, and can be properly poured without imperfections. Some floors require more sanding than others, but the biggest key is ensuring consistency across the entire floor.

Yes you can recoat epoxy flooring, however you will need to prepare your surface so that it can adhere to the epoxy coat. This preparation must include proper cleaning with a grease-cutting detergent to remove oil or other contaminants.

Before epoxy, it is important to prepare your concretes surface so that it is free of contaminants, fixed of imperfections, and properly sanded to optimize adhesion. With our epoxy having self-priming properties, as long as the prep work is properly carried out, there is no need for a seperate 'primer' over concrete.